Cartier ‘Tutti Frutti’ bracelet, 1938
Cartier ‘Tutti Frutti’ bracelet, 1938. Yellow gold and platinum bracelet. Set with sugrloaf emerald carved with foliate motifs, pavé-set diamonds entourage with a trio of calibré-cut ruby and diamond collet. Also interspersed with pavé-set diamond leaves and garlands. Similarly-set diamond and baguette-cut emerald clasp. Furthermore, Original Cartier certificate. Original case. Signed Cartier. Manufactured in 1938.
In the mid-1920’s, Cartier introduced a wonderfully imaginative and innovative jewellery style depicting lush flowers and fruits interpreted in a profusion of colour and texture. It was not long before these jewel came to be called ” Fruit Salad” or Tutti Frutti. This mouth-watering term, invented by Cartier , seemed a natural choice to express the feeling of these masterpieces and their lyrical movement, away from the strict geometry typical of the Art Deco period. The mellifluous, interpretive imagery of Tutti Frutti quickly captivated the Art Deco world, as it continues to captivate today’s connoisseur. The Tutti Frutti jewellery style of Cartier is distinguished by its profusion of rich colours, textures and contrast. Carved leaves, smooth or sculpted fruit and flower motifs, cabochon beads forming diamond-capped berries, entwined in a lively, harmonious dance. Perhaps most of all, the Tutti Frutti style is a celebration of passion and life, and the Cartier masterpieces a celebration of perfection and form, material, and artistic interpretation-
The Tutti Frutti jewelry style, with its abundance of colour and life, was closely derived from the Indian influence which had marked the firm’s production from around 1925. Its development, and the importance it earned, resulted in a large part from the contributions of one of the most creative and talented people ever brought into the firm, Jeanne Toussaint. Still in her 20’s, she joined Cartier in 1907 under Louis Cartier. Not long after her arrival, Toussaint came to be known as the “soul of the jewellery department. Toussaint also earn the nickname ” La Panthère” as she brought Peter Lemarchand to Cartier, whose artful “panthers” earned worldwide acclaim.